LYONS — How to set a tone of woodsy chic at a four-course candlelight dinner served under the stars in the Colorado foothills:

Live musicians and flowers, check.

Award-winning cuisine, check.

Beer and wine pairings with each course, check.

********* pairings? Oh, yes.

The 100 diners at this $200-a-plate dinner smoked a citrus-smelling ********* strain to go with a fall salad with apples, dates and bacon, followed by a darker, sweeter strain of *** to accompany a main course of slow-roasted pork shoulder in a mole sauce with charred root vegetables and rice.

And with dessert? *********-infused chocolate, of course, grated over salted caramel *** cream and paired with coffee infused with non-intoxicating hemp oil.

The diners received small glass pieces and lighters to ***** the pairings, or they could have their ********* rolled into joints by professional rollers set up next to a bartender pouring wine.

Welcome to fine dining in Weed Country.

The ********* industry is trying to move away from its pizza-and-Doritos roots as folks explore how to safely serve ********* and food. Chefs are working with ********* growers to chart the still-very-unscientific ***** of pairing food and weed. And a proliferation of ****-market cheap *** is driving professional growers to develop distinctive flavours and aromas to distinguish themselves in a crowded market.

“We talk with the (*********) grower to understand what traits they saw in the ********* … whether it’s earthy notes, citrus notes, herbal notes, things that we could play off,” said Corey Buck, head of catering for Blackbelly Restaurant, a top-rated farm-to-table restaurant that provided the meal.

The grower of one of the *** strains served at the dinner, Alex Perry, said it won’t be long until *********’s flavours and effects are parsed as intently as wine profiles. But that’s in the future, he conceded.

“It’s still looked down upon as a not-very-sophisticated thing,” said Perry, who grew a strain called Black Cherry Soda for his company, Headquarters ********.

Holding his nose to a small jar of *********, Perry said, “If I asked my mom or my dad what they smell, they’re going to say, ‘skunk,’ or, ‘It smells like *********.’ But it’s like wine or anything else. There’s more flavour profile there.”

This is just the latest trend in the booming *** industry where travel and wellness trends often intertwine.